Near this group of live oaks your dog may be captivated by a
pungent fragrance. At the base of the trees, there are patches of
ground that have no plant life. If your dog digs below this
“burned ground”, you will find that the emanation is coming from the
most expensive fungus in the world: Tuber
melanosporum, a hypogeal (subterranean) ascomycete. This species
of truffle is the rarest and for this reason is called diamant noir
(black diamond). The truffle has been a delicacy for thousands of
years. Theophrastus described the truffle as a “rootless
vegetable, generated by the heavy showers of autumn” and Pliny the
Elder called it a “miracle of nature”. The area surrounding Mont
Ventoux has been prized cropland in France since the reign of Francois
I (16th century) who was enamored by them while in captivity in
Spain. Truffle production in France peaked late in the 19th
century. A rural exodus and the industrial revolution, followed
by two world wars, caused the yield to plummet from 1587 tons in 1868,
to 36 tons in 1950. The truffle thrives on calcareous soil with a pH
slightly greater than 7 and moderate precipitation. It originates
from a mycelium that lives in mycorrhizal association with the roots of
a tree, for example a live oak, hazel tree, or olive tree. This
permits the fungus to obtain carbohydrates and, in exchange, the tree
receives minerals, which allow it to better support the limestone
content of the soil. These exchanges eventually trigger the
formation of yellow brown clubs on the mycorrhizae. When the
“trufflette” enlarges, it becomes independent and the truffle takes in
nutrients via tufts of mycelia at the tip of the peridium (covering of
the spore-bearing organ). The aromatic substance depends on ascocarp
maturation, which is signaled by an increase in fatty secretions and
the formation of brown-colored reproductive organs. The
maturation of the truffle and thus, its harvest time, occurs around
December to February. --Y. Zarbalian
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